How to choose the correct drill and bit
Voltage, chuck size, brushless motors, clutch settings, and a plain-English map of which bit belongs in wood, drywall, tile, masonry, and metal.
A drill is the first power tool most homeowners buy and the one most often bought wrong. The two common mistakes are buying far more tool than the house needs, and pairing a good drill with the wrong bit — which is what actually causes cracked tile, blown-out drywall, and stripped screw heads.
Here is how to pick both, in the order the decisions actually matter.
Step 1: drill/driver, hammer drill, or impact driver
A drill/driver spins and has an adjustable clutch. It is the correct default for a household: holes in wood and drywall, driving screws, assembling furniture, mounting hardware.
A hammer drill adds a rapid forward percussion while spinning. You need it for concrete, brick, and block — mounting a handrail to a porch step, anchoring into a basement wall.
An impact driver does not drill well; it delivers rotational hammer blows for driving long fasteners. It is a second tool, not a first one. Buy it when you are building a deck or driving 3-inch structural screws, not for hanging shelves.
Step 2: voltage, chuck, and the specs that matter
For a typical home, a 12V brushless drill/driver does 90 percent of what an 18V/20V does at roughly half the weight, which matters when you are overhead in a closet. Step up to 18V/20V if you expect deck framing, large hole saws, or mixing.
- Chuck size: 3/8 inch is fine for household work; 1/2 inch accepts larger spade and hole-saw shanks.
- Brushless motor: more runtime per charge and a longer motor life. Worth the premium if you keep tools for a decade.
- Clutch: the numbered ring. Lower numbers stop the drill sooner and prevent stripped screws and split trim. Use the drill icon (no clutch) only for drilling.
- Two speed ranges: low speed / high torque for driving, high speed / low torque for drilling.
- Battery ecosystem: you are buying a battery platform, not a drill. Pick the brand whose other tools you would plausibly own.
Step 3: match the bit to the material
This is where most damage happens. Bits are not universal, and using the wrong one in tile or masonry usually destroys the surface before it makes a hole.
- Wood: brad-point bits for clean, accurate holes; spade or auger bits for large rough holes; twist bits work but wander on start.
- Drywall (into a stud): standard twist bit, or drive directly with a screw. Into hollow drywall, drill only to the anchor's stated size.
- Metal: high-speed steel (HSS) or cobalt, run slow, with a drop of cutting oil. Heat, not speed, is what kills bits.
- Tile and glass: carbide or diamond-tipped, no hammer mode, low speed, constant water cooling. Start through a piece of masking tape so the tip does not skate.
- Concrete, brick, block: carbide-tipped masonry bit in hammer mode. Match the bit diameter to the anchor exactly.
- Driving screws: use bits that match the recess (PH2, SQ2, T25). A worn bit is the cause of most stripped screws.
Safety warningNever drill into a wall without knowing what is behind it. Electrical cable, water supply, and gas lines all run through stud bays. Use a stud finder with AC detection, keep clear of the areas directly above and below outlets and switches, and stop immediately if the bit hits something that feels hard and smooth.
Step 4: pilot holes and anchors
A pilot hole should equal the screw's shank diameter, not the thread diameter. In hardwood or near a board's end, always pilot; otherwise you split the wood.
For hollow drywall, the anchor determines the hole. Self-drilling threaded anchors hold roughly 20–30 lb, toggle bolts hold considerably more, and anything heavier belongs in a stud. TV mounts, cabinets, handrails, and grab bars always go into framing or solid blocking — never into drywall anchors alone.
Step 5: technique that keeps the hole clean
Start slow to set the bit, then increase speed. Keep the drill perpendicular; a tilted bit tears the exit side. Back the bit out periodically in deep holes to clear the flute. In masonry, let the hammer action do the work — pushing harder just overheats the carbide.
Tools we recommend for this
Chosen for usefulness, compatibility, safety and value — never for commission rate. Prices are typical US ranges and change often.
12V brushless drill/driver kit (2 batteries + charger)
Light enough for overhead and cabinet work, brushless for runtime, and the clutch keeps a beginner from stripping every screw. The right default for a house.
- Good for
- Furniture, shelving, hardware, wood and drywall holes
- Skill level
- Beginner
- Typical price
- $99 – $169
SafetyRemove the battery before changing bits and tie back long hair or loose sleeves.
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Titanium-coated twist bit set (1/16" – 3/8")
Covers everyday wood and light metal drilling, and the coating extends edge life through the first hundred holes rather than the first ten.
- Good for
- Wood, plastic, thin steel
- Skill level
- Beginner
- Typical price
- $18 – $35
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Carbide masonry bit set with hammer-drill shanks
Sized to common anchor diameters so the hole matches the sleeve, which is the difference between an anchor that holds and one that spins.
- Good for
- Brick, block, concrete, mounting exterior hardware
- Skill level
- Intermediate
- Typical price
- $15 – $40
SafetyMasonry dust contains crystalline silica. Wear an N95 or better and eye protection, and vacuum rather than sweep the debris.
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Diamond-tipped tile and glass bit set
Grinds rather than cuts, so it goes through porcelain and glazed tile without cracking the face. The one bit people wish they had bought before drilling a shower wall.
- Good for
- Bathroom hardware, tile backsplashes, glass
- Skill level
- Intermediate
- Typical price
- $20 – $45
SafetyNo hammer mode, keep the tip wet, and wear eye protection — tile chips travel.
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Impact-rated driver bit set (PH2, SQ2, T25 heavy on the common sizes)
Impact-rated steel flexes instead of shattering, and buying multiples of the three sizes you actually use beats a 60-piece case of sizes you never touch.
- Good for
- Driving screws, deck and structural fasteners
- Skill level
- Beginner
- Typical price
- $12 – $30
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